My overnight missions in the Southern Hemisphere to remote cabins and huts are typically reserved for mountain biking but on my most recent visit I was six months pregnant and ready to try something slightly more low key. Luckily my dear friend and fellow Crankworx-er, Lauren agreed to take on an out and back hike on the Kauaeranga Kauri trail to the Pinnacles Hut in the Coromandel Forest Park near Thames on the North Island of NZ.
Jumping for Pinnacles Hut joy
Packing and Prep:
The Pinnacles Hut is one of the cleanest, most well-organized huts I’ve ever stayed in. Boom. Yeah, it’s practically glamping. Expect fully functional barbecues, stoves, cutlery, kitchen utensils, soap and running water. It’s fully stocked.
Some things I still found essential were:
Earplugs
A headlamp
Sleeping Bag (no need for a Thermarest)
My trusty Kindle
Flip fops for bathroom trips
A dry bag with warm clothes
We encountered sunshine, rain, mist and everything in between. To plan for this type of weather we brought lots of layers.
Soaked from a 15 minute rain storm before the heat returned, mid-hike.
Getting To The Kauaeranga Kauri Trailhead:
A short drive from Thames (the last town before entering the ark) is a perfect place to fuel up for adventure, the Melbourne Cafe. We were tempted by other cute little road side stops but our friend from the Crankworx Rotorua team really nailed it with this recommendation. Awesome coffee, fresh tasty bites and a charming sun-soaked patio.
Melbourne Cafe was a slice of heaven
We arrived from Rotorua mid-day and didn’t want to mess around with searching for grocery stores and markets as they are not directly on route to the Park. It’s probably best to have everything lined up ahead of time as the hike is absolutely doable as a mid-day start.
The hike to the Pinnacles:
We lost cell service while winding up to the Coromandel Forest Park parking lot and the start of the hike. Not a huge issue for mapping (the trail is incredibly well marked), but we were glad to have let our friends/family know that we were going out of cell range before leaving Thames.
The hike traverses a river on the valley floor through lush forest….
Lauren is a fern fan.
Across multiple suspension bridges…
Despite the wobbles, these beautiful bridges are solid!
and eventually up a staircase style climb.
Little did I know about how many stairs we were about to take on.
These steps are the ultimate reason you’ll want to keep your pack light. Expect uneven, giant stone slabs that corkscrew up through the native forest for the largest portion of the hike.
Spectacular peek-a-boo views gave us a taste for what awaited us at the summit’s ridge line.
Candid snack break shot after a brief tropical rainstorm? Yes please.
The Pinnacles Hut:
We took our time getting to the top, snapping photos and hiding from rainstorms but still managed to reach the hut well before sunset. When we arrived we assessed all the amenities:
Running water (not potable)
Full block of toilets (long drops)
Two large bunk rooms with ample space and clean mattresses pads
Multiple barbecues with gas and tools
Huge kitchen area, fully stocked with cooking utensils
Games and books
Loads of seating indoors and out for meals and chilling
Jackpot!
The kitchen in the Pinnacles hut was radical and bright
The Sunset:
The gorgeous hike and lux hut aside, Lauren and I soon discovered that you can’t do this adventure without taking the Billygoat Track to the top of the Pinnacles at sunset or sunrise.
Stairs to the Pinnacles Summit at sunset
Some of the most incredible views of the North Island are waiting up there. Because we had arrived with time to spare and now clear skies, we knew this was our window for a dramatic sunset.
Proof that the best time was indeed had by all
To get right to the top of these beautiful stone spires demands some extra skill. The trail turns into a scramble with ropes and ladders. Worth every sketchy moment.
Golden hour goals
Watching the sun go down from what feels like the roof of New Zealand is intoxicating. So much so that once the last few drops of light spread out across the sky, we realized that we still had to down climb this tough trail in pending darkness.
Lauren snagging the best seat in the house.
Headlamps, bravery and warmer clothes come highly recommended for this portion of the hike.
Take in the view or race the last bit of light down the ladders? Tough call.
The Return Trip:
After a mostly good night’s sleep, read: lots of snoring bunkmates and hikers rising before dawn to catch the sunrise. We retraced our steps rather than check out alternative routes to the parking lot. Most review sites suggest that the best views and trail quality are on the main route (Webb Creek Track).
Back down into the rainforest
Surprisingly, the return trip wasn’t much shorter than the hike up in terms of moving time. Maybe it was navigating down those mega stone steps? Either way, the weather was quite hot once we reached the valley floor and we were now on the hunt for a place to swim and cool off.
The Pro Move - Hoffman’s Pool:
Nothing washes off the salt, dirt and sweat of the Pinnacles like rinsing in a freshwater eddy. Hoffman’s Pool was an oasis. Just a short drive down the road, we found this little gem of a swim spot calling us. Not another human in sight!
Hoffman’s Pool for the win.
Ultimately, this adventure could have been done as a day hike but we loved taking it in as an overnighter. Why rush sunset? This hike is quite popular and can get busy. We lucked out with a slightly quieter adventure by going mid-week and starting after lunch at an off-set time. If you’ve done this hike, leave a note in the comments. Until next time!
Some helpful tips for traveling with a little one for the first time. Plus fitting in triathlon training too.